INSTALL CHAIN LINK FENCE

8 EASY STEPS

Tools You Will Find Useful…

Before You Begin, It's Important…

  • String or chalk line and stakes.
  • Tape measure.
  • Post hole digger.
  • Wheelbarrow, shovel and hoe to mix and transport concrete.
  • Carpenter's level.
  • 1/2" x 9/16 Wrench or crescent wrench.
  • Hacksaw or pipe cutter.
  • Fence stretcher.
  • Pliers

         That fence footings do not exceed legally established property lines. If uncertain refer to a real estate agent's plot line or consult a professional surveyor.

         To check local codes for specifications regarding frontage locations, height, etc. A permit may be required.

         To check with local utility companies for locations of underground cables or pipe lines.

 

 

STEP 1

Locating Terminal Posts
(Corner, end and gate posts are terminal posts)

Locate the boundary lines to your property. Drive some stakes into the ground along the extension of your property line and stretch a chalk line or string between each stake. Be sure to allow about 24" on the offset (SEE FIGURE 1). It is recommended that all posts be set approximately 4" inside the property line so that concrete footings do not encroach onto any adjoining property.

 

When determining the positions of gate posts remember that clearance for hinges, latches, etc., is included in the listed width of the gate. Therefore; if you ordered a gate 36" wide, the opening between the posts should be exactly 36", inside post face to inside post face.

Gates come in the following standard widths:

Single walk - 36", 39", 42" and 48"
Double drive - 10 ft. and 12 ft.
In-stock sizes may vary based on local requirements.

Mark the location of each gate with a small stake.

Fig. 1

STEP 2

Settings Terminal Posts

Although post depth will be determined by local weather and soil conditions, holes for terminal posts are normally dug 8" wide and 18" to 30" deep with vertical sides (SEE FIGURE 2).

Fig. 2

Now, dig all terminal post holes.

Next, with crayon or chalk, mark the ground line on posts. Height, above level ground, of terminal posts will equal the height of the fence fabric plus 2". Height of line posts (intermediate posts) will equal the height of the fabric minus 2".

Set all terminal post in concrete. Posts should be centered into the hole. Be sure that the crayon mark remains at ground level. Check the plumb with a carpenter's level. Finally, crown all post footings so that water drains down and away from posts (SEE FIGURE 3).

(For special conditions SEE FIGURES 4.)

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

In all examples shown

, tops of terminal posts should be 2" Above fabric tops of line posts 2" below top of fabric. Measure without fittings.

FLAT GROUND

SLIGHTLY UNEVEN GROUND

GRADUAL SLOPING

TERRACED GROUND


Corner post assembly is used at point A to allow fabric
to follow terraced contour of ground.

SLIGHTLY ROLLING GROUND

VERY UNEVEN GROUND


Corner post assembly is used at points A and B
when ground rises or drops more than 15" per 100 lin. ft.

STEP 3

Locating and Setting Line Posts
(Intermediate Posts)

After concrete footings have hardened enough for posts to remain plumb, stretch a string taut between terminal posts. It should be positioned on the outside face of the posts 4" below the top (SEE FIGURE 5).

Measure the distance between terminal posts and refer to Line Post Spacing Chart for exact location of posts.

Mark the location of all line posts with stakes. Align with the centers of terminal posts.

Now, dig the post holes (normally 6" wide and 18" to 24" deep) and set the line posts. Before concrete begins to set, adjust post height by carefully moving post up or down in footing. Top of line posts should be even with string; outside face approximately 1/4" inside. Check plumb with carpenter's level. Crown footings as in step 1.

 

Fig. 5

STEP 4

Adding Fittings to Terminal Posts

Please refer to materials checklist for the description and quantity of fittings that are required for various posts types and heights.

After concrete footings have been allowed to sufficiently harden, slip the tension bands onto the terminal posts. The long flat surface of the tension band should face toward the outside of the fence. Next add brace bands (SEE FIGURE 6). Take care not to spread or distort the fittings. Now apply all post caps.

 

Fig. 6

STEP 5

Apply Top Rail

Place eye-top fitting on the end of each line post. The flat side of the eye-top should be toward the outside of the fence (SEE FIGURE 7). Insert one length of top rail pipe through the eye-tops closest to a terminal post. Slip a rail end onto the end of the top rail and attach it to a terminal post by using the brace band. Secure by using a 5/16" x 1 1/4" carriage bolt (SEE FIGURE 7). Continue by forcing lengths of swedge end top rail together through the eye-tops. (If swedge end top rail is not used, join lengths together with top rail sleeve.) Upon reaching the next terminal post, measure carefully and cut the top rail to fit tightly between the last length of top rail and the rail end fastened to the brace band on the terminal post. Secure in place with a carriage bolt.

Fig. 7

STEP 6

Hanging Fence Fabric

Starting at a terminal post, unroll chain link fabric on the ground along the outside of the fence line to next terminal post. Then, slide a tension bar through the first row of chain link. Fasten evenly spaced tension bands (already on the post) to the tension bar, fabric combination. Use 5/16" x 1 1/4" carriage bolts; heads to the outside of the fence.

Now, walk along the fabric and stand it up against the fence frame, taking out the slack as you go. Loosely attach fabric to top rail with a few tie wires to hold it in place. Next, separate enough fabric from the roll to span the opening between the terminal posts. It is not necessary to cut wire (SEE FIGURE 8).

Fig. 8

Removing Excess Fabric

With pliers, open the top and bottom loops (knuckles) of a single strand of wire at the desired point of separation. Unwind the strand up through the links until the fabric comes apart.

 

 

 

Splicing Sections of Fabric

Using a single strand of wire, removed from end of fabric, join the two sections by winding the loose strand down, corkscrew style, through the end links. Join and tighten the knuckles at top and bottom to secure. Note: Before sections can be spliced, a second strand may have to be removed to provide a proper mesh.

STEP 7

Stretching the Fabric

The fence fabric will need to be stretched from the terminal post already attached toward the opposite terminal post. Insert a tension bar about 3 feet inside the unattached end of the fabric. Then securely fasten one end of the fence stretcher to the tension bar and the other end to the terminal post. (SEE FIGURE 9). Now, stretch the fabric. The correct fabric tension should allow a slight amount of give when squeezed by hand. Adjust fabric to exact length by adding or removing wire as described in figure 8. Then insert a tension bar at the end of the fabric and connect to tension bands on terminal post. After removing the fence stretcher fabric securely with tie wires spaced approximately 24" apart along the top rail and 12" apart on each line post (SEE FIGURE 10). Finally, securely tighten nuts on all brace and tensions bands.

FIG. 9

Fig. 10

STEP 8

Hanging Gates

The same installation procedure is used on both single walk and double drive gates (SEE FIGURE 11). Apply post (male) hinges to gate post. To prevent gate from being lifted off, top post hinge should be installed with pin pointing down; bottom post hinge with pin pointing up. Set gate in place, aligning top of gate with top of fence. Adjust hinges to allow for swing. Position gate latch at convenient height. Tighten all bolts securely.

Fig. 11

 

 


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